The Road to Hana at the Pace It Demands

The Hana Highway is 64 miles from Kahului to Hana with 620 curves and 59 bridges, and it is either the most beautiful drive in America or the most nauseating, depending on whether you're driving or sitting in the back seat. The trick is to stop. Often. The road was not designed for speed; it was designed by the topography, and the topography insists that you notice every waterfall, every black-sand beach, and every roadside banana stand along the way.

The Garden of Eden Arboretum at mile 10 is a manicured jungle with labeled plants and ocean overlooks. Twin Falls at mile 2 is a short hike to a swimming hole with a cascade that hits the pool with enough force to massage your shoulders. Wai'anapanapa State Park near Hana has a black-sand beach backed by sea caves and lava tubes, and the contrast between the black sand and the turquoise water makes every photograph look manipulated and isn't.

Hana itself is a small town that moves at a pace the rest of Maui forgot — one gas station, one general store, and Hasegawa General Store (rebuilt after a fire, stocked with everything) that has been serving the community since 1910. The drive beyond Hana to the Pools of 'Ohe'o (Seven Sacred Pools) in Haleakala National Park adds waterfalls that cascade down a volcanic slope into swimming pools that stack like a staircase to the ocean.

Practical notes: Start early (by 7 AM). Drive the road one-way, not as a loop — the south side past Hana is unpaved and some rental companies prohibit it. Bring snacks, water, a swimsuit, and reef shoes. Download an offline map — cell service is spotty. Budget the full day and do not rush. The road will teach you patience or it will teach you car sickness, and patience is the better lesson.