The Road to Hana Demands a Full Day

The Road to Hana Demands a Full Day

64 miles from Kahului. 620 curves. 59 bridges. Either the most beautiful drive in America or the most nauseating, depending on whether you're driving or in the back seat. The trick is stopping often. The road was designed by the topography, and the topography insists you notice every waterfall and banana stand.

Twin Falls at mile 2: short hike to a swimming hole. Wai'anapanapa State Park near Hana: black-sand beach backed by sea caves and lava tubes, the contrast between black sand and turquoise water making every photo look manipulated. It isn't. Hana itself: one gas station, one general store, Hasegawa General Store since 1910. Beyond Hana, the Pools of 'Ohe'o in Haleakala National Park — waterfalls cascading into pools stacked like a staircase to the ocean.

Start by 7 AM. Drive one-way, not as a loop — the south side is unpaved and some rental companies prohibit it. Download an offline map. Cell service is spotty. Budget the full day. The road teaches patience or it teaches car sickness. Patience is the better lesson.